Axial Bowstrings

Compound archery troubleshooting — why does my…

This is a symptom-to-cause index, not a deep dive. Every entry names the most likely culprit in plain language. When a full article covers the diagnosis, follow the link. Start here, dig there.

Arrow flight problems

Why does my arrow hit left?
Grip torque is the most common cause. If your hand is wrapped around the handle, you're pushing the riser left as the arrow launches. Relax your bow hand completely and let the bow fall forward into your wrist sling. At longer distances, second-axis misalignment on the sight can also drift arrows laterally. Full explanation →
Why does my arrow hit right?
Same grip torque diagnosis applies — but grip torque can push right too depending on hand position. Also check cam lean and rest timing. A rest that releases too early or sits too far left can kick the nock right at launch. Cam lean (the cam tipping toward the riser) deflects the arrow toward the lean.
Why does my arrow hit left at distance but not up close?
This is a classic second-axis problem. Your sight's second axis controls lateral tilt at distance — a misaligned second axis has almost no effect at 10 yards but drifts arrows significantly at 40+ yards. It can also indicate underspine, which becomes more apparent as the arrow decelerates. Full explanation →
Why does my arrow fishtail?
Left-right wobble after the shot points to rest timing, spine mismatch, or nock height. Check that your drop-away cord is timed to lift the rest before the arrow leaves, and that your nock height is centered. Spine that is too weak or too stiff for the bow weight and draw length will also produce fishtailing.
Why does my arrow porpoise?
Up-and-down wobble is nock height and draw length. If the nock point is too high, the arrow kicks up off the rest. Too low, and it kicks down. A draw length that's slightly too long also changes your anchor and can cause porpoising from inconsistent string contact at the face.
Why does my arrow keyhole or tumble?
An arrow that hits the target sideways is badly underspined, or has a vane clearance failure that destabilized it in flight. Underspined arrows flex so violently at launch that the vanes can't recover them. Check for vane contact on the rest or riser with a spin test or powder test first.
Why do my arrows group well close but spread at distance?
Distance magnifies every imperfection. Underspined arrows, form inconsistency, and heavy-FOC arrows that weathercock in crosswind all get worse at distance. Paper tune at close range won't catch a flight instability that only develops after 30 yards. Full explanation →
Why does my arrow hit high in cold weather?
Cold temperatures stiffen limb material and affect string length slightly, which shifts draw weight and poundage. Heavier effective draw weight means higher velocity and a higher point of impact at a given distance. Re-check your zero when ambient temperature changes significantly.
Why does my broadhead fly differently than field points?
Broadheads have large blade surfaces that amplify any arrow instability — they steer the arrow where the instability sends it. Low FOC, undersized vanes, and weak spine all become worse with fixed broadheads. Fix the underlying flight problem first, then the broadheads will follow. Full explanation →
Why does wind affect my arrow so much?
Light arrows with low grain-per-inch (GPI) are pushed sideways more easily because they have less inertia to resist lateral force. Very high FOC can also cause weathercocking — the arrow turns to face the wind. Heavier arrows with balanced FOC resist wind better. Full explanation →
Why does my arrow arc too much?
A heavily arcing trajectory means the arrow is slow, heavy, or both. This is normal physics — heavier arrows at lower velocity drop more. If the arc is interfering with your shooting at field distances, you may need a faster arrow or a higher launch angle tuned into your sight tape.
Why do my arrows hit in a vertical line instead of a group?
A vertical string of arrows points to inconsistency in anchor, draw length, or peep position shot to shot. If the peep moves, your sight picture changes vertically. Inconsistent anchor — jaw, nose, or thumb contact — does the same. Full explanation →
Why do my arrows hit in a horizontal line?
A horizontal spread usually means release inconsistency or grip pressure varying shot to shot. If your bow hand grips differently on different shots, the riser torques differently. A thumb trigger release fired with different index finger tension will also produce horizontal spread.

Paper tuning

Why do I have a right tear in paper?
On a compound with a mechanical release, a right tear means the nock is going right at launch. Move the rest to the right in small increments. Also check for cam lean — a cam leaning away from the cables can kick the nock right. Spine is not the fix: left/right tears on a compound are a rest position or cam lean problem. That's recurve logic and it does not apply here. Full explanation →
Why do I have a left tear in paper?
On a compound with a mechanical release, a left tear means the nock is going left at launch. Move the rest to the left in small increments. Check for cam lean toward the cables, which can also drive the nock left. Do not chase this with spine changes — spine does not cause left/right tears on a compound. That is finger-shooting logic that does not transfer.
Why do I have a high tear in paper?
The nock end is going high — the nock point is too high. Lower the nock point or D-loop attachment slightly. Move in small increments (1/16 inch at a time) and re-shoot.
Why do I have a low tear in paper?
The nock end is going low — the nock point is too low. Raise the nock point or D-loop slightly. Also check that your rest height is set so the arrow center-shots through the berger hole.
Why does my paper tear change with distance?
If your tear changes from close to far, you don't have a simple tuning tear — you have a flight instability. A spine problem or vane problem that the fletching partially corrects shows up differently at different distances. Full explanation →
Why does paper tuning not fix my groups?
Paper tuning shows you what the arrow is doing at launch — not what it does in flight. An arrow can tear bullet hole at six feet and still fishtail or porpoise downrange. Use paper tuning as a starting point, then confirm with bare-shaft and walk-back testing. Full explanation →
Why does my paper tear look different with a bare shaft vs. a fletched arrow?
It's supposed to. Vanes steer a misbehaving arrow back toward center — so a fletched arrow hides problems that a bare shaft exposes. If your bare shaft tears much worse than your fletched arrows, you have a real tuning problem that your vanes are masking, not fixing.

Release and execution

Why do I flinch at the shot?
You're anticipating the shot — your brain fires a protective motor response before the release fires. This is target panic. Equipment doesn't cause it and equipment can't fix it. The solution is rebuilding the shot process so the break is genuinely unexpected. Full explanation →
Why do I punch the trigger?
Punching (consciously firing the release at a specific moment) is the hallmark of target panic. You're trying to control the exact instant of the shot, which causes you to stab at the trigger when the pin reaches the right spot. The cure is learning to let the shot break, not cause it. Full explanation →
Why does my release feel different every shot?
Inconsistency at the release usually comes from variable back tension, variable grip on the release body, or thumb pressure changing shot to shot. Any of these changes the leverage on the trigger and produces inconsistent timing. Full explanation →
Why do I freeze on the target?
Freezing — the pin locking up away from or on the target with no ability to move it — is a form of target panic. The body locks up when the aiming-to-firing loop breaks down. This is a shot process and mental game issue. Full explanation →
Why does my release fire at a random time I didn't choose?
If you're using a hinge or back-tension release, a shot that breaks unexpectedly is correct execution — that's the design. The release fires when your back pressure reaches the threshold, not when you decide. If you're using a thumb trigger and it's firing randomly, the sensitivity is too high or something is contacting the trigger. Full explanation →
Why does my release not fire when I want it to?
Either the trigger tension is set higher than your back muscles can consistently reach, or target panic is causing you to let down before the shot breaks. If you can fire the release freely with no target in front of you, the problem is mental, not mechanical. Full explanation →
Why does my shot feel dead or stacked at full draw?
A dead or stacked feeling at full draw usually means draw length is too long. When draw length is correct, you should feel loaded and comfortable at full draw with the back engaged. Too long, and the bow runs out of valley and starts pushing back before you're ready.
Why do I creep forward at full draw?
Creeping — the draw hand drifting toward the target — is often caused by draw length that's slightly too long, or by target panic causing the body to relax before the shot breaks. Both reduce effective draw length at the shot and cost velocity and accuracy.
Why does my bow hand move at the shot?
Your bow hand is supposed to move — the bow should jump forward out of your grip into the wrist sling. The problem is if the hand is gripping and steering the bow. Keep the grip open, let the bow fall, and your hand motion becomes consistent. Full explanation →
Why do I grip the bow too tight?
Tight gripping is usually anxiety-driven — an unconscious attempt to control the bow at the moment of the shot. Target panic often manifests as a death grip. Conscious practice with a relaxed open hand, and understanding that the sling does the catching, breaks this habit. Full explanation →

Peep sight

Why does my peep rotate?
On a new string, the strands are still settling and equalizing tension — this causes the peep to rotate as the string twists slightly under load. Shoot it in. If the peep wasn't tied into the serving, it will rotate on every shot until you tie it.
Why does my peep still rotate after several shooting sessions?
The string may still be settling, or the serving tie-in is too loose. Add more wraps to the tie-in and ensure the thread is seated tight. A peep that keeps rotating after 200+ shots on a quality string should be reseated and retied.
Why is my peep blurry?
Peep aperture size and scope lens diameter need to match your vision and lighting conditions. A smaller aperture sharpens the scope ring but darkens the view. A larger aperture lets in more light but softens the ring edge. Match peep size to your most common shooting conditions.
Why does my peep align differently shot to shot?
If the peep rotates inconsistently or appears at different heights, the peep isn't tied in tight enough, or the string is still twisting unevenly. Also check that your anchor points are genuinely consistent — a peep that moves usually means the string moved, not the peep itself.
Why does my peep move up and down?
Vertical peep movement is usually the nock point or D-loop shifting, not the peep itself. Confirm the nock point hasn't moved before adjusting the peep position. If the peep truly migrates up or down, it's not served in — retie it.
Why did my peep disappear into the string?
The peep wasn't tied in — it was only wedged between strands. Under load and twist, an untied peep will eventually get pulled into the string. Replace the peep and tie it in with serving thread. Never shoot a peep that's only wedged.

Sight and aiming

Why does my sight bubble never settle?
A bubble that won't settle is usually a form issue — grip torque, breathing, or shoulder instability. The bubble is reading your body, not causing your problem. Work on a consistent grip and bone-supported draw before chasing the bubble with equipment adjustments.
Why does my sight drift left when I'm under pressure?
Grip torque. Under adrenaline, your hand grips tighter, which torques the riser. The sight drifts left (for a right-handed archer) because the grip is pushing the top of the riser away. Practice with a deliberately open grip under pressure conditions. Full explanation →
Why does my pin float widely?
A wildly floating pin means draw weight is too heavy for your current conditioning, you're fatigued, or your back muscles aren't engaged and you're holding the bow up with arm strength. Reduce poundage, focus on back engagement, and build up gradually.
Why does my pin float in a circle?
Circular float usually comes from head position or shoulder socket that isn't seated. If the bow shoulder isn't back and down into a solid position, the bow arm wanders in a circle under load. Check your stance, shoulder set, and head position.
Why does my sight need to move after I change arrow weight?
Heavier arrows fly slower and arc more — their trajectory at a given distance is lower than a lighter arrow. Total arrow weight change always requires re-zeroing your sight. This is normal and expected.
Why doesn't my sight tape match real distances?
Sight tapes are generated from ballistic calculations based on speed and arrow drag coefficient. If your chronograph reading or drag estimate is off, your tape will be off. Verify with a chronograph at multiple distances and recalculate.
Why don't my fixed pins match all distances?
They're not supposed to — fixed pins are zeroed at specific distances, not every distance. Between pin gaps you're using gap shooting (holding high or low of the pin). If your gaps are too big, add pins or switch to a moveable sight.
Why does my arrow hit higher in warm weather?
Warm temperatures make limbs slightly more flexible and string material slightly longer, which can shift draw weight and peak velocity marginally. The effect is small but measurable at long distances. Check your zero when shooting in significantly different temperatures than your last tune.

Arrow components and build

Why do my field points keep unscrewing?
Thread vibration backs out points over time, especially with light points or a stiff bow. Use a small o-ring on the threads, apply a dab of bowstring wax, or switch to breakaway-style points. Thread lock is a permanent solution but makes points hard to remove. Full explanation →
Why do my broadheads group to a different point than my field points?
Broadheads have larger surface area and steer differently than blunt field points. Low FOC, undersized vanes, and spine issues that field points mask all show up with broadheads. Get the underlying flight right first — matched FOC and adequate vane control will bring them together. Full explanation →
Why do my inserts keep coming out?
Hot melt adhesive softens under impact and can release on hard hits. Epoxy is a permanent fix — clean the insert and inner shaft with alcohol, apply 2-part epoxy, and let it fully cure before shooting. Don't rely on hot melt for competition or hunting.
Why are my arrows cracking near the insert?
Over-torquing points concentrates stress at the insert collar and can initiate carbon cracks. Impact damage (hitting rocks, dirt) does the same. Inspect every arrow at the insert area before each use — flex the arrow and look for white stress lines in the carbon.
Why do my vanes keep peeling off?
The most common cause is contaminated shaft surface. Carbon shafts must be wiped with isopropyl alcohol immediately before fletching — skin oil and release agent from manufacturing prevent adhesion. Clean, apply primer if your adhesive calls for it, and let cure fully before shooting.
Why does one vane always peel?
One vane peeling means that vane is contacting the rest or riser during launch. Do a spin test (hold the nock, spin the arrow slowly, watch for contact) and a powder test (coat the rest in white powder and shoot). Move the vane offset or rotate your nock to clear the contact point.
Why do my arrows spin inconsistently when I hand-spin them?
Inconsistent spin points to a bent shaft, a damaged vane, or a loose insert. Roll the arrow on a flat surface to check for bend. Inspect each vane for tears or peeling. Press on the insert — if it moves at all, re-glue it.
Why do my arrows hit different impact points even though they look identical?
Weight variance between arrows causes different trajectories. Even arrows from the same box can vary by several grains. Weigh each arrow on a grain scale and group them by weight. For competition, sort to within 1 grain. Full explanation →
Why do arrows from the same box weigh differently?
Manufacturing tolerance — carbon fiber shafts, inserts, and points all have weight variation within spec. For recreational shooting this is irrelevant. For competition, weigh every component and sort arrows into matched sets.
Why does my nock feel loose on the string?
The nock throat diameter doesn't match your center serving diameter. The serving is too thin. Re-serve to a larger diameter, or switch nocks to a size that fits your existing serving snugly with a slight snap.
Why does my nock feel too tight or hard to snap on?
Serving is too large for the nock throat. Re-serve thinner, switch to a larger nock throat size, or adjust serving diameter. A nock that's too tight causes the arrow to cling to the string and can affect release.
Why does my D-loop keep moving?
The tie-off knots aren't seated tight enough, or the loop material is too stiff to grip well. Re-tie with fresh BCY 24 or equivalent material, melt the ends carefully, and seat the knots firmly above and below the nock. A correctly tied D-loop should not move under any normal load.
Why does my D-loop wear out fast?
Release jaw geometry and loop size interact — a release jaw that's too large for the loop pinches and abrades the material on every shot. Check that your loop size matches your release jaw. A loop that's too small creates the same abrasion from the inside.

Bow setup and tuning

Why does my draw weight change?
Temperature affects limb stiffness — cold makes limbs stiffer and heavier, warm makes them lighter. Limb bolts backing out also drop draw weight. Check your limb bolts before assuming a problem; re-tighten to manufacturer spec and recheck peak weight.
Why does my ATA (axle-to-axle) length change?
String and cable creep on a new string system shortens ATA as the strands compress. This is normal for the first few hundred shots. After break-in, ATA should stabilize. If ATA is still drifting after 500+ shots, your string material may be low quality.
Why does my bow valley feel short or non-existent?
A short valley is often cam timing — if the cams aren't synchronized, one cam rolls over before the other and the valley disappears. It can also mean draw length is set slightly too long, putting you at the edge of the valley at your anchor. Check cam timing first.
Why does my bow feel stacked at full draw?
Stacking means the draw weight is climbing rapidly as you approach full draw with no real let-off valley. This is usually draw length set too long — you're past the designed draw length range. Shorten draw length and the valley should reappear.
Why does my bow make a loud noise at the shot?
Diagnose by elimination: check for arrow contact on the riser or shelf, check that all accessories are tight (sight, rest, quiver), check for string or cable contact on dead stop bumpers, and listen for limb pocket noise. One source at a time — don't add noise dampeners before finding the cause.
Why does my bow vibrate excessively after the shot?
Excessive post-shot vibration is usually cam timing off, or insufficient stabilizer weight. A bow in perfect timing transfers energy cleanly. A stabilizer that's too light doesn't absorb residual vibration. Check cam timing before adding weight.
Why does my bow jump forward at the shot?
Forward jump is correct — a well-tuned bow with an open grip should fall forward toward the target. The bow is supposed to move. If the bow kicks sideways or up, that's a form or balance problem. A forward bow is a happy bow.
Why do my limb bolts keep loosening?
Vibration from shooting gradually backs out limb bolts unless they're torqued correctly and/or secured with thread lock. Apply a small amount of blue thread lock to the threads, torque to spec, and check periodically. Never fully remove limb bolts without knowing your baseline turns.
Why does my cam lean?
Cam lean is controlled by yoke tuning on bows with split yokes. Twist the appropriate yoke cable to push the cam in the desired direction. Minor cam lean is often acceptable; significant lean should be corrected because it deflects the arrow off center.
Why does my cable guard push against the cable so hard?
The cable guard is designed to deflect cables away from the arrow path — contact is expected and normal. Excessive deflection can affect tune. If your bow came from the factory with a cable guard, the design accounts for it. Only adjust cable guard position if your manual says to.
Why does my rest keep moving?
The mounting surface — usually the berger hole riser — must be clean and free of oil or residue before mounting. The set screw must be fully tightened. If the rest still moves, the berger hole may be worn or the mounting hardware may be loose inside the riser.
Why doesn't my drop-away rest return to the same position?
Drop-away timing depends on the cord connecting the rest to a cable or limb. If the cord is too long, the rest doesn't rise fully. Too short and it pulls up early or applies tension before launch. Re-tie the cord and test until the rest rises fully just as the arrow begins to travel.
Why does my rest contact my arrow during flight?
Rest timing is off, or your fletching isn't clearing the rest launcher arms. Check your drop-away timing first. Then run a powder test or use white foot powder on the rest to see exactly where contact happens. Rotate your nock or adjust vane offset to clear the launcher.
Why does my bow lose draw weight over time?
A very gradual loss of draw weight over years is normal limb fatigue — limb material compresses slowly under repeated cycling. Check limb bolts first since that's an easy fix. If bolts are fully tightened and draw weight is still low, the limbs may be at end of life.

String and cable

Why does my string stretch?
New strings settle as strands compress and equalize under load. This is normal and will slow dramatically after 200–400 shots. Quality materials like BCY 452X minimize creep significantly compared to older fiber types. After break-in, a quality string should hold its length.
Why does my string keep creeping (ATA getting shorter)?
Same root cause as stretching — new string break-in. If ATA is still changing after 500 shots, the string material is low quality or the string wasn't built with proper strand tension. A well-built string on quality fiber should stabilize.
Why does my center serving separate or unravel?
Serving wears at the nock contact point, especially if nock fit is too tight or if a release jaw is digging into the serving. When you see serving separation, replace it before it progresses. Find the cause — tight nock or release geometry — or it will wear the new serving too.
Why does my center serving wear fast?
Two causes: a nock throat that's too tight abrades the serving from the outside, and a release jaw that contacts the serving abrades it from below. Check both. Nock fit should snap on with gentle pressure, not require force.
Why does my string fray?
String fraying means the strands are contacting a sharp edge somewhere in the bow — often a cam groove edge, a cable slide, or a limb tip. Find the contact point before it progresses to a broken strand. Never shoot a fraying string.
Why is my string peeling apart at the cam?
The cam groove edge may be sharp, worn, or have a burr. Inspect the groove carefully. A groove edge that's too sharp will cut into the string over time. Some cam groove edges can be lightly polished; others require a replacement cam.
Why does a new string change where my arrows hit?
New strings change your ATA and draw weight slightly as they settle, which shifts your tune. Always retune — nock height, rest position, and sight settings — on any new string. Don't assume a new string will drop in with your old tune intact.
Why do my string colors bleed or blur together?
Some dye lots bleed slightly, especially in heat or humidity. This is a cosmetic issue and not structural. The performance of the string is unaffected. If you need clean color separation, ask your string builder about colorfast dye lots or avoid two adjacent similar colors.

Groups and scoring

Why are my groups inconsistent?
Inconsistent groups are almost always a shot process problem above beginner level. Equipment variance exists, but the archer is a much larger variable. Before adjusting anything on the bow, get honest about your release, grip, and anchor consistency. Full explanation →
Why do I shoot well in practice but fall apart in competition?
Competitive pressure changes your physiology in ways that break down automatic movements. Your shot process needs to be more robust than your practice environment demands. Practice with deliberate pressure — tight time limits, audience, scoring stakes — to stress-test your shot. Full explanation →
Why does my first arrow always go somewhere different?
The first shot is on a cold bow, cold muscles, and a fresh nervous system response. Limbs are at ambient temperature, strings at resting tension, and your adrenaline hasn't normalized. Warm up — shoot several arrows before any scored round begins. Never let your first scored arrow be your first arrow of the day.
Why do I shoot better alone than in a group?
Social pressure is real and physiologically identical to competitive pressure. Being watched activates the same adrenaline response as a tournament. If you only practice alone, you're only training for being alone. Full explanation →
Why are my groups tighter at 20 yards than at 40 yards?
Distance magnifies everything — form variation, equipment variance, and wind. A 0.5-inch error at 20 yards is a 1-inch error at 40. This is physics, not failure. Tightening your shot process and spine selection are the levers. Full explanation →
Why do I shoot a great practice round and then fall apart in a tournament?
Practice conditions don't replicate the physiological state of competition. Anxiety, elevated heart rate, and outcome pressure change your shot timing, grip tension, and release feel. The gap between practice and competition is closed by practicing under pressure, not by shooting more comfortable practice rounds. Full explanation →
Why does my score drop in the second half of a round?
Physical fatigue accumulates across a round — especially in the back and shoulder — and degrades your hold stability and release consistency. Mental fatigue is also real and compounds as the round progresses. Train your endurance for the full round, not just the first few ends. Full explanation →
Why do I always shoot one bad arrow per end?
If you know before you walk to the target that one arrow is going to be low, you felt something wrong at the shot — a hitch in the release, a grip twitch, a pulled anchor. That awareness is signal. Use it diagnostically: what was different? Your body is telling you something you need to hear. Full explanation →
Why does adjusting my bow never seem to fix my groups?
Because the archer moves with the equipment. If you adjust the rest right, you'll compensate left. If you change arrow spine, your form adapts unconsciously. Chasing groups with equipment changes without fixing the underlying shot process is a loop with no exit. Full explanation →

Equipment purchases and decisions

Why didn't a new bow fix my accuracy?
The archer moves with the bow. Every accuracy problem you had on your old bow transferred to the new one on day one. New equipment is sometimes the right call, but it's never the fix for a shot process problem. Full explanation →
Why didn't a new release fix my target panic?
Target panic is a learned response — your nervous system associates the aiming moment with the act of firing, and no hardware change breaks that association. A new release type can help reset the process, but only if you rebuild the shot properly from scratch. Full explanation →
Why does my draw length feel wrong after years of shooting?
Draw length can change over time as your shoulder and back development changes, or as your technique matures. If the bow feels stacked, too long, or your anchor feels forced, get re-measured. It's not unusual for an archer's ideal draw length to shift half an inch over several years.
Why does my bow feel heavier to hold up lately?
Either you've added stabilizer weight without adding enough time to adapt, or physical fatigue and conditioning have changed. Holding weight for aiming is a specific muscle group — if you've been shooting less, it deconditions quickly. Rule out changes to the stabilizer setup before assuming a physical problem.
Why do I shoot better with a loaner bow than my own?
Fresh equipment means fresh psychology — no learned anxiety, no baggage from bad rounds, no compensations built in. The loaner bow also tends to feel novel and interesting, which focuses attention on execution rather than outcome. That's a mental game insight, not an equipment finding. Full explanation →

Hunting specific

Why do my broadheads plane off course?
Fixed-blade broadheads with inadequate vane control will steer toward any instability in flight. Low FOC shifts the center of pressure rearward and makes the arrow steer tail-first. Use larger vanes — at least 2-inch helical — and get your FOC into the 12–15% range minimum. Full explanation →
Why did my arrow pass through cleanly but leave almost no blood trail?
A pass-through is usually a shot placement question, not an equipment failure. The lungs produce the most blood trail — liver and muscle hits can pass through with minimal external bleeding. Arrow and broadhead selection matter far less than precise shot placement.
Why do my fixed-blade broadheads group poorly but mechanicals group fine?
Fixed blades have full blade surface exposed during flight and require better arrow flight to stay on course. Mechanicals open on impact, so they fly more like field points. If your fletching, FOC, or spine is marginal, fixed blades will expose it and mechanicals will hide it.
Why does my arrow hit differently when shooting from a treestand?
Shooting downward changes the effective gravity component on the arrow's flight. The correct technique is to aim for the horizontal distance, not the slant range. At steep angles, the slant range is longer than the horizontal distance, so using slant range overshoot. Use the horizontal distance for your pin selection.
Why does cold weather change where my arrow hits when hunting?
Temperature changes limb stiffness, string length, and arrow velocity. Cold bows shoot slower and with slightly different draw weight than the same bow at 70°F. If you zeroed your hunting setup in September at 70° and you're hunting in November at 30°, re-check your zero in the actual conditions.